What you get
You are here -
Kit and RtR models contents are briefly listed here.
All new models are to ACCURATE 1:32 scale. No compromises have been made to achieve this, just intelligent design to compensate for the smaller boiler needed to fit the scale cladding. Where present, the dome is functional allowing the boiler to be completely filled (as opposed to say 80% full in an ARM1G boiler – even with the smaller boiler diameter this gives around 120% of ARM1G capacity and a projected run time of 54 minutes between refills) this is fine for the locos with the safety valve on top of the dome, but would cause problems with the lower safety valves on some locos. This problem is overcome by feeding the lower safety valve remotely from the dome.
All my models are designed for a minimum curve radius of 2 metres. The limiting factor on a tender loco is the point at which the tender hits the loco dragbeam. This is obviously irrelevant for a tank loco, so tank locos may well go round something tighter.
All my current models are entirely made of nickel silver with lost-wax brass castings made from 3D printed masters, copper boiler, thick walled brass gas tank (copper tube in some cases) and cast-iron wheels (Walsall) or Slater’s nylon spoked wheels depending upon availability.
If you have ever put together brass and nickel silver kits you will know that, whilst more expensive, nickel silver is a vastly superior material – I no longer use brass. Nickel silver is stronger, easier to solder and takes paint better. The frames are nickel silver 0.92mm thick with the top edge turned over to an inverted L section providing great rigidity. I have tried to eliminate steel wherever possibly to minimise rusting.
All my newer models have been designed to be put together with Loctite AA 326 adhesive and/or solder - your choice. Solder works better on L joints like the splasher edges, but adhesive is now my preferred method for other joints. I will be writing instructions on using adhesive soon, after building a few more locos and improving my techniques. Wherever possible I try to provide tabs and slots (sometimes holes and bolts) to make assembly easier and stronger.
Painting will be simple – spray acid etch primer followed by mostly black gloss, red for the buffer beams and inside the frames. Apply the transfers then spray varnish to required finish. Transfers (laser printed to eliminate fading) come as large panels including the lining - this eliminates the need for colour painting the area inside the lining. The transfers are customised for each loco showing the users preferred company and number.
All my models have been designed to run “naked” – i.e. without all the bodywork, which is just held on by the buffers. This enables testing without potentially vulnerable bodywork attached. The cab is easily removed for more normal running should you want to. Not really necessary as all adjustment of the servos is done through the radio control system, including centre position and extent of travel.
Download the illustrated assembly instructions to see how it all goes together and is easily dismantled for maintenance (should such be necessary). Even if you intend to buy the Ready to Run version, I recommend this as it is the best way to see what you will be getting.
The model has been totally integrated with the radio control system, to provide greater feedback to the user and provide an operational experience more like the real thing such as running around the carriages at the termini and shunting goods wagons in a mixed train. This is all remotely controlled from a mobile phone or tablet (user supplied). Those moving up from the smaller scales will probably appreciate this. It makes it much easier to model a branch line in a small garden without the need for a large loop and just going round in circles – you can still do that if you wish. You should only need to touch the loco to refill the gas, water and lubricator as required, and switch the radio control on and off.